The Night Before the Final Exhibition!!!

430am and I am back from the darkroom after a LONG day. Been in there since 9am, minus a final photography dinner with my mentor and the other photo students and our program director. Delicious meal, well needed after the bananas, chocolate bars and tea I keep in the darkroom to keep me going. The trip back at 430 am was beautiful, Prague is lovely. Its was clear and quiet, but not spooky or scary (the way Los Angeles can be at night.) It was very at peace. There wasn't anyone around, except near the bus stops, where the occasional person shivered quietly. Its nice that the public transportation runs all night long, so even at 345 when I wanted to come home, I was able to. That said, the trip usually takes me 15 minutes, not 45 but still.... 3 cheers for public trans!

The exhibition is tomorrow and I am so excited! It should be very nice. I'm thrilled to finally see all my work from the last few months together in a collection. I know what I've done and spent so much time on each piece individually, that I am curious to see how the final body of work looks. The best thing about this is that my work is in no way done. This exhibition is just an end to my time in Prague with these particular people (So sad to leave Miroslav!), but I will keep working and perfecting this project and my work in general. I'm so happy with this project that I almost don't want it to be over... so hey! It isnt, until I say so! (heehee!)

That's all for now! Glad to share my excitement with you before I get some much needed sleep before a busy day setting up the exhibition space and in the evening.... SHOWTIME!

A Lovely Culture Shock

Sorry about the infrequent posting! As the semester comes to a close I am been crazy busy preparing for my final exhibition! That means: lots of time in the darkroom...So many hours!

I am also working on several other projects. One is a book of aerial photographs I have been working on for three years. Today, it was finally ready to go to the publisher. My mentor, Miroslav, introduced me to a former student of his and now prominent printer and photographer, Mr. S. He prints entirely on archival paper. None of this glossy paper, plastic coating crap. Just beautiful old fashioned paper. This is really important for this particular book because the photographs concentrate on texture and line. I wanted heavy paper, one where you could see the grain and fiber under the ink and around the borders. Mr. S helped me pick lovely 320gram paper (that's really heavy). It's perfect!

I arrived at the studio at 10:30am and we looked over the photographs and I described the paper I needed. We pulled out some papers to choose from, and a second round, and mixed and matched. He treated me like a VIP client, not a student. I suspect it was out of respect for his former teacher, Miroslav, who is truly loved around Prague. Every photographer in Prague worth his salt has worked with Miroslav and those students who are too young to have studied under him envy me for having the chance. I am so grateful for getting to work with him. Miroslav knows so much, it has been such a great experience.

But back to my day with Mr. S, the printer: after we picked the paper, he basically taught me how to create books and the basics of preparing photographs for printing until 3pm. He took 4 hours (!!!) out of his day to mentor me on information that would not only help me with our current project but also with endeavors in the future. I just couldn't help thinking that in the US, something like that (a professional donating that much time out of their day) would seldom happen. That lesson was a lovely surprise and gift.

Never Have I Ever....

View of the Prague Castle

Lately I've been thinking about living abroad. Not just studying abroad but living in Prague. (And no, not permanently either.) Let me explain. Recently I was thinking how quick and easy it was (after a while) to get used to living abroad. I have a routine and a life here and I only arrived two months ago! It's such a strange thing. To think, there will in fact be an adjustment going back home after this. Something clicked recently and I realized I haven't been "adjusting" to living abroad in a long while. I'm just living abroad now. Living in Prague is different from home, absolutely. But now when I try to pinpoint the things that make it so, it is more and more difficult because I am accustomed to living in Prague. It's also the reason why I miss home more now... it seems farther away!

I also thought it was a good idea to look back and write down all the little experiences I may not have thought to blog about as they happened.

At this point in my study abroad experience I have: 

1. mistaken the Czech words for men and women's restrooms.
2. done my grocery shopping entirely in Czech.
3. gone to Charles University's version of Fall W.I.L.D. (Walk In Lay Down, Washington University in St. Louis's fall music festival). See a preview here. 
4. discovered there are probably more different types of Czech alcohol than there are people in Prague. (beer of course, Moravian white wine, Becherovka, Slivovice, burcak, svarak or hot wine, grog, czech rum... made out of potatos like everything else in this country... the list goes on and on!)
5. been to an art gallery opening over an hour away by train.
6. been regularly spoiled with live music to accompany dinner. 
7. bargained in Czech. 
8. relied on church bells for the time, rather than a watch.
9. gone 2 months without ketchup and then thought fries and Heinz were sent from heaven. 
10. been mistaken for a local.

Me, our mentor Miroslav, and fellow Photography in Prague students (and my roommates)
Anna and Rachel at an art opening in Utsi. 

A shot of Becherovka at David Cerny's MeetFactory.     

Julie & Anna vs. Europe: Round 1

Anna's visit in Prague was fabulous. We started the trip off with dinner... Anna's first Czech food. Obviously: schnitzel and a Pilsner at Lokál. Then we took to the streets! I tried to take her to the Metronome (a giant metronome clicking away time where a giant Stalin statue used to stand) to see the classic view of all of Prague but winter fog had set in that night and we couldn't see the river in front of us. Instead, we took sat in front of a beautiful old building in the beer gardens, next to the gazebo, where they have weddings in the summer. After we had swapped enough stories we met my crazy friend Anthony at 5 Story Club... the largest club in Central Europe. Each story is a different club: different music, lights, theme, bar, everything. We spent most of our time at the hip hop or Oldies floors, dancing on the balconies or air guitar-ing like champs (wait, that last one may have just been me... Oops.) And ended the night walking across the Charles Bridge at 5am... dark but classically lit by dim street lamps, private and beautiful. We strode towards the Castle like that was our destination, and not my little flat on the 4th floor.

Anna showing off historical Old Town Prague... and her incredibly sexy legs! Ooh la la!

The best part was taking Anna to see all the public art in Prague... espescially all the David Cerny sculptures!!! Like this one and the 2 below. There is SO MUCH CRAZY ART in Prague. It's such a silly city!

The Astrological Clock.

When in Rome.... fly to Prague and try on the silly fur hats people wear there.

 The best experience I have had in Prague, hands down, has been painting the John Lennon wall with Anna. The wall was a symbol of hope and rock & roll during Communism in Prague. Every night rock lovers would paint it with messages of peace and good feeling (akin to those of John Lennon and the Beatles) and every morning it would be painted over by the government who wouldn't allow such messages. Today it is still frequently painted in this memory... however, many tourists also frequently use it to document "Praha 2011 b****es!" or "Kevin & Brit 4eva!" too. These tourists don't come as prepared as Anna and I... with paint (not Sharpie), messages of change, and typography jokes!

In the next few weeks I'll post pictures showing how our additions to the wall will become just another cohesive layer on top of the night after night of secret murals from the 1960s-89.

The finished mural!

Anna stayed for 5 days of adventures before heading back to France. It was such a nice vacation to have her around...I can't wait until I can go visit her in Toulouse at the end of November!

Snapshots of the Czech Republic

Sorry about the backlog of posting. This post is pictures of the last random travels in the Czech Republic. I have finally been back and able to breathe for a little over a week. (exhales loudly....) but now the crazy fun starts again... one of my closest friends is visiting from France. Anna goes to school with me in the states and but is studying abroad as well. For her fall break, she is with me in Prague for FIVE DAYS. We are having one adventure after another. It's been an incredible whirlwind. It's so nice to have family in town. I love playing tour guide and showing off all my favorite places. Prague is the best playground. So before I post pictures of the Incredible Adventures of Anna & Julie, here are pictures from the last week in the Czech Republic.

 The photography department took the students on a class retreat to Poněšic, a rural town in CZ where they have cabins. It's beautiful. Here each person (BA, masters, and profs) gave a presentation of their best work from the last year to the entire group. Some where in English, some in Czech. The rest of the time was spent hiking or having classes in the words, boating on the river, and drinking large amounts of Czech liquor at all times (it was basically on the itinerary.) During architecture photography class we traveled to villages built in the 1800s to see the strange houses. That class in itself was the height of my 3 day trip. 2nd was the fuzziest, warmest cat who fell in love with me and wouldn't let me put her down. 


The trip was a chance to know the other photo students better. I won't lie, the language barrier is not a problem in class but it is socially. They speak English when they have to, but its hard to get them to speak English instead of their native language. (I understand that, too. I'm just saying it was hard to be included in the group.) Also, as only three Americans in the group there is a strange separation. It really makes a difference that we aren't European. Another obvious division is smoking. A big part of their socializing is centered around cigarettes. As a non-smoker I'm fine sitting outside with them as they smoked but it was definitely considered odd for me to do so. As the weekend went on we all got more comfortable with each other and I found myself even in some lively debates about everything from  health care, immigration, heritage, to which country has the best alcohol. Success!

The view from the cabins. Lovely! 

The view from a baroque garden. You can see Dan, reading the history of the gardens, his shadow, and then mine as  well. 

Peacocks in the park. This is very genuine Prague. 

Eating delicious truffles at my favorite restaurant CukrKavaLimonada. Yum!

Vienna Night Run: Oct 9, 2011

2 weeks ago I had the incredible opportunity to run a race in Vienna! I hopped a bus to the beautiful city and spent the a 3 day weekend there. I'm fortunate enough to have been there before and knew a few "favorite" places... I adore Café Central, and spent a few lazy mornings reading there and sipping cocoa. But Saturday night rolled around, the night I had been waiting for.... 

...and it was freezing! A storm was passing through and it rained all of Friday and Saturday, with a brief and lucky pause Saturday night. We had clear but cold weather 36 degrees fahrenheit! (only 2 celsius!). 

This is my first official race not with a team and not hosted by my university. It was really exciting! Afterwards there was a huge party by the castle with beer and strudel and a live band. The best part was meeting a Brazilian woman named Aline. She moved to Vienna after marrying a Austrian man, has been here for 5 years and learned German for love. It was great to get to know her!

Vienna is one of the most classically beautiful cities, perfect for a night run. 10,000 people ran past historical plazas and palaces, all gorgeously light up in the moonlight. It was a wonderful sight to see. I was thrilled to be a part of it. 

Me in my Vienna Night Run race shirt... it's bright green and incredibly reflective... cus, hey, it's a night run!

 This race was a sort of "Cookie Monsters Midnight Snack"since in April earlier this year, my boyfriend Mike ran the Saint Louis Marathon sporting a cookie monster hat. I supported him at the marathon wearing the Cookie Monster shirt... and now in October, Cookie Monster was due for some more exercise.

The crowd cues to start the race! Excitement builds!

Aline and me after the 5k! Victory! We met before the race and then had a great run together.

The party afterwards and a lovely Viennese museum or palace (something old and beautiful) in the background.

Simply, this night rocked. 

My Favorite Things: Vienna

Café Central, an historical coffee house frequented by the likes of Freud, Leon Trotsky & Vladmir Lenin, Theodore Herzl, Adolf Loos, and modernist poet Peter Altenberg. Though all mentioned were regulars, Altenberg frequented Café Central to the extent that he gave it as his home address! He is honored to this day by a statue of him in the en, you can see him on the left side of the panorama above. 

Yum! Cafe Central has delicious coffee and pastries. And every day they have live piano playing. It's such a pleasant experience to sit and enjoy the day there. I especially love to read history in such a historical place! 

Dali! My favorite! Kunsthalle Vienna had a fabulous Salvador Dali exhibition! A great collection.  He is one of my favorite artists of all time. They even showed him appearing in videos from his real life, like throwing a party/ fundraiser in the woods and appearing on a game show 

Dali Atomicus, the best portrait I have ever seen. 3 cats, suspended furniture, and countless buckets of water, and 28 takes. Thank you, Philippe Halsman!

(more Dali love.)

This is an incredible piece of work I stumbled up. It is a photogram, the most simplistic form of photography, of a very modern object to make a abstract form that looks beautiful. To me the abstracted objects nearly resemble flowers. They are graceful and quite lovely in person. This snapshot does no justice. Any guess to what the object it? 

The photograms are of different cellphones receiving calls! This is the brilliant work of Christoph Fuchs and Gregor Hofbauer, 2003. This yellow one is titled "Jakob Calling, Siemens L55" (2003).

One of my favorite parts of traveling is to see different perspectives and approaches, to life, art, everything... Fuchs and Hofbauer took the simplest form of photography, which is often forgotten and disregarded as such, and applied it to modern and relevant subjects to make a beautiful and new way of seeing our everyday objects. That is beautiful art to me. 

This image is lovely but strange. It is unlike any other I've seen because it is not "normal photography" but in fact an X-ray! Cool, right? It's a great reminder that images come from many tools, not just those we deem "artistic" or "fine art." I love that something this delicate and creative came from an imaging machine (a camera) that is usually used only pragmatically. (Anonymous, Untitled, 1930s, X-ray.)

Above is one of the most intense sculptures from antiquity I've ever seen. Look at those faces and fists!

Hundertwasserhaus, Vienna was designed by artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser as an organic living space. For example, the apartment building has 250 trees growing inside the building and the floors and walls undulate like rolling hills. People currently live in all of the apartments.    

East Side Gallery: Berlin's Most Famous Graffiti... Murals on the Berlin Wall

One last "street" find I forgot to post last time :-)

The East Side Gallery is a segment of the Berlin Wall that was preserved and painted by invited artists from countries all over the world after the fall of the Wall on November 9, 1989. Now it serves as a memory to the spirit of the generations who fought against totalitarianism.

It's also a widely visited tourist site. It kills me that these murals were defaced by common graffiti to the extent that every 10 years or so they have to (and will have to) petition the artists for permission to "repair" them. This is not state-of-the-art restoration, they simply repaint them completely. They were repainted very recently and already the work has been defaced. It makes me angry that stupid tourists, who paid thousands of dollars in plane tickets and hotels, hostels, and food, waste it all to come here, to ooooh and ahhh at "the Berlin Wall" which is now devoid of its authenticity at their own hands. FYI if you do visit Berlin, there are still many meters of authentic Berlin Wall intact, as well as a "documentation center" that is worth a visit (its not quite a museum). It's in another part of town but worth the look.

I've told you why you shouldn't go to the East Side Gallery, but everyone (including me) still does. That's okay. The colors are bright, you forget it was only painted last year and revel in the strange and wonderful imaginations of artists from around the world. Some of the designs are quite good, some quite famous, some quite strange... Here are my favorites:

Varda Carmeli/ Israel 

Hey there! 

Also, it is called the East Side Gallery because while under Soviet control the side of the wall facing East Berlin was guarded by soldiers with machine guns. Where the side facing West Berlin frequented graffiti, the East Side of the Berlin Wall remained bare. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, it seemed a novel idea to paint the formerly guarded side with messages of freedom.

Probably the most famous East Side Mural of them all.

Interesting graffiti here... Look closely the quote is actually "He who wants..." but someone added an "S" to make it a "She who the want the world..."